[From Carla’s Part II: The Recipes (Monday through Thursday)]
This method of cooking mushrooms—by pan-roasting them, then finishing with browned butter—is incredibly effective, whether you’re adding them to pasta or not. In the second step, the butter and aromatics wash a ton of flavor over the mushrooms, glossing them up.
From the Market (Ingredients)
Mild chile flakes, Shallot, Tender herbs, Maitake mushrooms, Wide pasta noodles
Instead of Aleppo pepper, use a smaller quantity of regular red pepper flakes or lots of black
Replace the shallot with ¼ onion
The herbs are truly interchangeable, in any ratio, and can include basil, chives, tarragon, and/or dill
Use shiitake, oyster, and/or cremini mushrooms instead of maitake
Big tubes like rigatoni or paccheri are good too
At Home (Ingredients)
Salt and pepper, Garlic, Lemon, Olive oil, Parmigiano, Butter
A few dashes of sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar can replace the lemon juice and zest Grana Padano or pecorino can replace the Parm
Fat Noodles with Pan-Roasted Mushrooms and Crushed Herb Sauce
- Kosher salt; freshly ground pepper
- 6 cloves garlic, divided
- 1 lemon
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- 1 teaspoon mild chile flakes, such as Aleppo pepper
- 1 shallot
- 1 pound maitake mushrooms
- Chunk of Parmigiano, for grating and serving
- 2 cups lightly packed herbs (leaves and tender stems), such as parsley, mint, and/or arugula
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 pound wide pasta noodles, such as lasagnette or pappardelle
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season it very aggressively with salt (figure ¼ cup salt per 6 quarts water). Pick out the smallest garlic clove and finely grate it into a small bowl. Grate in the zest of the lemon, then stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil and the chile flakes. Season oil mixture with salt and pepper and set aside.
- Thinly slice the remaining 5 garlic cloves and the shallot. Trim the mushrooms; tear into bite-size pieces. Juice the zested lemon into a small bowl. Grate enough Parm to yield ¼ cup (save what’s left for passing at the table). Set all aside.
- Add the herbs to the boiling water and cook until very softened, 2 minutes. (Cooking the herbs both mellows and deepens their flavor; they will have less fresh brightness but take on a richer, more vegetal flavor.) Use a mesh spider or tongs to remove the herbs and hold them under cold running water until cool enough to handle, about 10 seconds. Squeeze out as much excess liquid as possible. Thinly slice the herbs and stir them into the oil mixture. Taste and adjust with more salt and chile flakes, if desired. Set the herb sauce aside.